In the high valleys of the Andes, where the wind brushes the crops and the earth holds ancient secrets, grows a root that has defied oblivion: mauka (Mirabilis expansa [Ruiz & Pav.] Standl.). Known as miso, chago, or taso depending on the region, this enigmatic plant has been cultivated and valued by rural communities, yet remained invisible to academia and modern agriculture for centuries. Through scientific research, farmers’ testimonies, and my own conversations with those who study and grow it, I’ve uncovered a story that blends botanical mystery, tradition, and untapped potential. This account aims to share what we currently know about mauka—its past, its characteristics, the efforts to conserve it, and the unanswered questions that still challenge us.

A Late Rediscovery

Mauka is one of the last Andean crops to be “discovered” by modern science. Although botanist Paul C. Standley described the wild plant in 1931, it wasn’t until 1965 that agronomists Julio Rea and Jorge León documented its cultivation in the northern valleys of La Paz, Bolivia. The finding was surprising: a large edible root had gone unnoticed by academia. By the late 1960s, similar crops were reported in Ecuador, where it is called miso, and later in Peru, specifically in Cajamarca, thanks to the work of Juan Seminario (National University of Cajamarca), and Santiago Franco and Juan Rodríguez from INIA Cajamarca. There, mauka was found at over 2,700 m.a.s.l., growing on the edges of corn and potato fields, quietly integrated into traditional Andean mixed farming systems (NRC, 1989; Seminario et al., 2019).

Morphology of the mauka root (Mirabilis expansa). Extracted from NRC (1989).

"Mauka (pronounced mah-oo-kah) comes from Aymara and is the most widely used name among its many Andean denominations."

This dispersed distribution, with diverse local names, reflects mauka’s deep roots in the Andes but also raise new questions: Where did it originate? Why does it appear in such distant regions? The book Lost Crops of the Incas (NRC, 1989), an essential read for understanding neglected Andean crops (and one I personally recommend),included mauka among other marginalized crops of the time, such as maca (Lepidium meyenii), ahipa (Pachyrhizus ahipa), and achira (Canna indica). The publication sparked the interest of researchers who began traveling not only to Peru but also to other regions of the Americas to study Andean crop diversity. Its appearance marked a turning point, as explained by Juan Seminario in an interview:

“Mauka, like many Andean crops, was not a priority in South American universities; it wasn’t part of the core curriculum. With the rise of the Green Revolution (roughly between 1940 and 1960), research, teaching, and production focused on improved foreign seeds (wheat, rice, maize), and root and tuber courses barely mentioned potato or sweet potato. Those who dared to study ‘marginal’ crops were seen as a bit eccentric. However, after the 1989 publication of Lost Crops of the Incas, which compiled research by Latin American scientists from Peru, Ecuador, Bolivia, and others, the perspective began to shift: international interest in native crops grew, creating a ripple effect within the region, slowly paving a path for reclaiming our agrobiodiversity.”

Where does Mauka come from?

To date, no archaeological remains of mauka have been found, whether as preserved plant material or as ceramic or pictographic representations evidencing its cultivation (León, 2013). The most widely supported hypothesis based on current evidence places the center of origin and diversity of the species in northern Peru.

In the interview I conducted, Juan Seminario recalled that his first encounter with mauka was in the late 1980s, in a locality in Chota, Cajamarca, where he found it growing alongside potato and maize crops. From that discovery, he began an extensive field survey that, by 2004, led him to report the presence of mauka in more than 230 localities, distributed across 36 districts and 17 provinces of this northern region. During his observations, he documented remarkable morphotypic variability, identifying at least four cultivated morphotypes, which provided key evidence to support the hypothesis of a northern Peruvian origin for the crop (Seminario, 2004a).

In 2012, Seminario and Manuel Valderrama expanded this knowledge base with a comparative analysis of morphological traits in mauka accessions from Peru, Ecuador, and Bolivia. Their conclusions showed greater phenotypic variability in the Peruvian collections, particularly those from Cajamarca, thus reinforcing the hypothesis of a Peruvian origin (Seminario & Valderrama, 2012).

"The center of origin of a cultivated plant is also the center of its greatest diversity." — Nikolai I. Vavilov, botanist, geneticist, and pioneer of agricultural biogeography.

Gregoria, Delia, and Yovana with “kuyacsa” (the local name for mauka) cultivated in family gardens in Huánuco. Photo credit: Harriet Gendall (2016).

For its part, the National Research Council (1989) contributed to this interpretive framework by proposing that the current distribution of the crop in different Andean regions could be explained by the forced movements of Andean populations, who likely carried the plant with them as part of their agricultural heritage.

Center of origin and diversity of mauka (Mirabilis expansa) in northern Peru, highlighted in blue: 1. Cajamarca, 2. La Libertad, and 3. Áncash. The arrows indicate diversification routes toward Ecuador (Quito) and Bolivia (La Paz).

Taken together, the accumulated evidence points to the center of origin and diversity of mauka being located in three key departments of northern Peru: Áncash, Cajamarca, and La Libertad (Gendall et al., 2019; Seminario, 2004a; Seminario et al., 2019). However, this should not limit research efforts in other Andean countries, such as Bolivia, where to date there is no representative ex situ collection of the crop (Gendall et al., 2019).

Agronomic and Botanical Characteristics

Mauka is a vigorous plant with abundant leaves, thick stems, and edible roots about the size of an adult’s forearm. Its appearance is reminiscent of cassava (Manihot esculenta), although botanically it belongs to a different family: the Nyctaginaceae. This family sets it apart from other popular Peruvian roots such as potato (Solanaceae), sweet potato (Convolvulaceae), or cassava (Euphorbiaceae).

Its closest relatives are not found in fields but in gardens: it shares its family with ornamental plants such as bougainvillea (Bougainvillea spp.), famous for its colorful flowers that, at certain times of the year, adorn the walls, balconies, and gardens of Lima with vibrant hues. It is also related to the four o’clock flower (Mirabilis jalapa), known in Peru as “Marvel of Peru” , an ornamental flower native to tropical America that captivated European botanists from the 16th century onwards with its multicolored blossoms. The name Mirabilis, meaning “wonderful” in Latin, seems fitting for such a versatile plant.

From left to right: bougainvillea flower and four o’clock flower, respectively.

One of the most remarkable aspects of mauka is its nutritional value. Both the leaves and stems are edible and have traditionally been consumed by people and animals. In many high Andean areas, fresh leaves are directly offered to guinea pigs or livestock as part of their daily feed. Far from being simple plant waste, these green parts contain high levels of protein: up to 14% dry weight (DW) in the leaves and around 7% DW in the roots. These levels are unusually high for a root crop, making mauka doubly useful: as human food and as nutritious fodder. In addition, it provides 283 mg of phosphorus and 111 mg of calcium per 100 g of edible portion, which is about ten times more calcium and up to sixteen times more phosphorus than potato—further highlighting its potential as a highly beneficial Andean crop (Bazán et al., 1996; Seminario, 2004a; Seminario et al., 2019). However, as Gendall (2019) cautions, many of these traditional uses have begun to fade over time.

Dori scraping the skin off “allja yuca” roots (local name for mauka), Corongo, Áncash. Photo by Harriet Gendall (2016)

The plant also stands out for its resistance to wind, its adaptability to diverse conditions, and its good integration into traditional polycropping systems, making it a resilient and promising crop for high Andean ecosystems.

Its most common method of propagation is vegetative, through basal stem cuttings. However, according to Gendall (2019), some farmers claim that mauka can also reproduce spontaneously thanks to its abundant seed production, giving rise to more vigorous plants. This reproductive potential opens new possibilities for agronomic research and for rediscovering, once again, the hidden value of this Andean root.

Abundant flowering of mauka with numerous pink blossoms covering the plant. Credit: Carola Pereda.

Revaluing Mauka

Since 2016, the interest in reviving this Andean crop gained new momentum after a chance encounter between Harriet Gendall, an ethnobotanist from the University of Copenhagen, and Mater Iniciativa. Harriet had come to Peru to research an almost forgotten root, and her enthusiasm aligned with Mater’s interest in discovering resilient Andean crops and new flavors. That meeting marked the beginning of a collaboration that went beyond academic documentation, opening paths to explore the gastronomic potential of mauka and, above all, to actively contribute to its promotion and conservation. This text is part of that shared effort.

Different mauka root morphologies. Left: Root from Áncash (22 cm). Right: Root from Cajamarca (32 cm).

During her stay, Harriet contacted Juan Seminario, already noted for his key role in the study of Andean roots, thus strengthening the connection between research and local knowledge. In our conversations, she explained that her approach focused on gathering the testimonies of those who still cultivate mauka, to understand why its cultivation was disappearing and how communities perceive it.

Her observation was clear: although mauka was no longer a popular crop, those who continued to grow it did so with deep affection, care, and a sense of heritage. However, the younger generations, marked by unfamiliarity and drawn to more commercial crops, were leaving it aside.

Gendall also collected moving accounts from families who keep this tradition alive:

“This root sustained us in the past, and now we preserve it.”
- Testimony from a farming couple from Corongo, Áncash (Gendall, 2019)

Guardians of Mauka

Among the most significant experiences is the collaboration with Carola Pereda and Eilif Leidulvstad, a couple living in Corongo, Áncash, who were already cultivating mauka with great commitment, which is why they were included in Harriet’s research. They maintain an ecological farm where they grow mauka, locally known as allja yuca, alongside pajuro (Erythrina edulis), more than 200 varieties of native potatoes, and other Andean crops. They do so while facing the challenges of climate change, pests, and the passing of time, driven by a firm conviction to preserve inherited knowledge and crops.

Varieties of potatoes maintained by Carola Pereda and Eilif Leidulvstad.

Carola is also the founder and manager of Murukuna, a self-managed cultural center for children and youth in Corongo, where art, reading, science, cinema, play, nature, and creative thinking are encouraged. The name Murukuna means “seeds” in the local Quechua, and it precisely reflects the mission of the space: to sow learning and nurture new generations who are aware of their cultural and natural heritage.

Since 2016, this couple has observed an alarming decline in mauka cultivation in the area. Many older farmers have stopped planting it or have passed away, and the younger generations do not always recognize its value. Even so, Carola and Eilif have continued cultivating and propagating different varieties, at least four accessions, including material from Puno, Cajamarca, and Áncash—and even sent roots to Lima as a gesture of collaboration for its conservation. For them, keeping mauka alive is not only an agricultural practice but also an act of memory and resistance against forgetting.

Cooking and Conservation: A Root in Motion

The work carried out in 2016 also had an impact on contemporary cuisine, where chef Virgilio Martínez experimented with mauka. Thanks to the joint efforts of Harriet Gendall, Malena Martínez (director of Mater), and Ancash farmer Elmer Gutiérrez, 10 kg of fresh mauka were sent from Marcará for use in the kitchen.

These roots were used in three preparations that explored their texture and flavor:

(1) Mauka in a hot broth in the style of ceviche. (2) Thin crispy mauka layers with fresh Andean cheese and herbs (3) Thin strips of mauka. Photo by Harriet Gendall (2016)

These explorations opened new sensory possibilities for an ancestral crop that had rarely found its way onto the plates of haute cuisine.

Virgilio Martínez and Pía León at Central, plating mauka. Photo by Harriet Gendall (2016)

A Second Chance: Mauka in the Chacra MIL (2025)

Although the initial project to incorporate mauka as a regular ingredient at Central, Kjolle, or MIL did not prosper at the time, interest in this crop remained latent. Today, in 2025, thanks to coordination with the International Potato Center (CIP) and the support of Iván Manrique, curator of roots and tubers, we have formally gained access to four mauka seed accessions as part of a joint effort for its conservation and reintroduction into Andean agricultural systems.

From the beginning, Iván showed great openness and generosity toward the project. In our conversations, he expressed both personal and professional interest in mauka and stressed that, from an academic perspective, greater dissemination, research, and visibility are still needed for this crop. He also underlined the importance of reconnecting it with the field and with the communities that have kept it alive.

As part of this process, in March of this year we carried out germination trials with the four accessions, obtaining promising results that reinforced our commitment. Thanks to this, we are preparing with greater confidence for sowing at the MIL farm in Cusco during the 2025–2026 agricultural season.

Germination trial of four mauka (Mirabilis expansa) accessions. After 4 days (A) the first seeds germinated, while after 7 days (B) a notable increase in the number of emerging seedlings was observed. A 100% germination rate was achieved in all four accessions through the application of the auxin indole-3-acetic acid (IAA).

This will be our first direct cultivation experience, which will allow us to conserve, observe, and learn from mauka through our own practices. Iván emphasized that the practical reintroduction of mauka into agricultural and gastronomic spaces can not only help safeguard the species but also stimulate its study, cultivation, and protection on a larger scale.

A story that could repeat itself: Mauka and Maca

The story of mauka is not isolated; it can be compared to that of maca (Lepidium meyenii), another Andean crop that managed to resurface after years of neglect. In Junín, archaeological remains of maca dating back to 3800 B.C. have been found, evidence of its ancestral use. During the colonial period it was valued, and local peoples even recommended feeding it to livestock to improve fertility (León, 2013). However, in the 20th century its cultivation declined drastically, and by the 1980s only about 50 hectares were planted across all of Junín (Graves, 2000; Hermann, 2013).

The situation changed thanks to revalorization initiatives promoted by CIP, INIA, and the Peruvian State, which encouraged its national and international diffusion under the label of a “superfood” and “natural Andean viagra.” This drove its recovery and transformed it into a symbol of agricultural identity (Gonzales et al., 2014). The experience of maca shows that when science, communication, and local knowledge are brought together, a marginal crop can be reborn with strength. Perhaps something similar is now beginning to happen with mauka (Hernández Bermejo & León, 1992; León, 2013).

A plant with a future

Today, mauka is at risk, as its presence has been worryingly reduced. Despite its extraordinary nutritional properties and multiple uses, its cultivation is becoming increasingly limited, and its knowledge barely survives in certain communities. Many young farmers no longer recognize it. Conserving and promoting it could open new possibilities to diversify diets, strengthen resilient farming systems, and, above all, reconnect with the wisdom of the land.

Thanks to those who grow it, study it, and cook it, mauka is still alive. Perhaps, like so many Andean roots, it is simply waiting for the moment to be reborn with new strength, sustained by the hands that care for it.

Bibliography

Bazán, M., López, J. I., & Pajares, W. (1996). Forage potential of chago (Mirabilis expansa) in the feeding of rabbits (Oryctolagus cuniculus) [PhD Thesis]. Thesis Eng. Zoot. Cajamarca, Faculty of Animal Science, National University of Cajamarca.

Gendall, H., Seminario, J., Sørensen, M., & Theilade, I. (2019). Unearthing the “Lost” Andean Root Crop “Mauka” (Mirabilis expansa [Ruíz & Pav.] Standl.). Economic Botany, 73(4), 443-460. https://doi.org/10.1007/s12231-019-09467-y

Gonzales, G. F., Villaorduña, L., Gasco, M., Rubio, J., & Gonzales, C. (2014). Maca (Lepidium meyenii Walp), a review of its biological properties. Revista Peruana de Medicina Experimental y Salud Publica, 31(1), 100-110. http://www.scielo.org.pe/scielo.php?script=sci_abstract&pid=S1726-46342014000100015&lng=es&nrm=iso&tlng=es

Hernández Bermejo, J. E., & Leon, J. (1992). Neglected crops: 1492 from a different perspective. https://www.sidalc.net/search/Record/unfao:783910/Description

León, E. (2013). 14,000 years of food in Peru. USMP, Universidad de San Martín de Porres, Fondo Editorial.

NRC (National Research Council). (1989). Lost crops of the Incas: Little-known plants of the Andes with promise for worldwide cultivation. National Academies Press. https://books.google.com.pe/books?hl=es&lr=&id=jMlxpytjZq0C&oi=fnd&pg=PR11&dq=+Lost+Crops+of+the+Incas:+Little-known+Plants+of+the+Andes+with+Promise+for+Worldwide+Cultivation&ots=N0za84516T&sig=ZcfVbu9NQaXloPQA2CN7oOQeOZ4

Seminario, J. (2004a). Andean roots: Contributions to knowledge and training. International Potato Center.

Seminario, J. (2004b). Andean roots: Contributions to knowledge and training. International Potato Center. https://books.google.com.pe/books?hl=es&lr=&id=L-sz8Eir9IIC&oi=fnd&pg=PA1&dq=RAICES+ANDINAS+Contribuciones+al+conocimiento+y+a+la+capacitaci%C3%B3n+&ots=azEECqscyE&sig=-rHsXjJ9akrUwRKnNy_snQC2EZE

Seminario, J., Chalampuente-Flores, D., Gendall, H., & Sørensen, M. (2019). The Agronomy of Mauka (Mirabilis expansa (Ruíz & Pav.) Standl.)—A Review. Journal of Plant Genetics and Crop Research, 1(2), 1-23. https://doi.org/10.14302/issn.2641-9467.jgrc-19-2619

Seminario, J., & Valderrama, M. A. (2012). Morphological variability and agronomic evaluation of maukas Mirabilis expansa (Ruiz & Pav.) Standl. from northern Peru. Revista Peruana de Biología, 19(3), 249-256. http://www.scielo.org.pe/scielo.php?script=sci_abstract&pid=S1727-99332012000300003&lng=es&nrm=iso&tlng=pt

Annexes

Table 1. A total of 39 vernacular names are recorded for mauka (Mirabilis expansa) and related species, including spelling variations, references to colors, and wild forms. The information comes from various Andean localities in Ecuador, Bolivia, and Peru. Adapted from Gendall et al. (2019).